Fabric File

The character and quality of the fabric you use for making up a pattern is largely responsible for the finished look of the garment. If you make up the same pattern in two totally different fabrics - silky polyester or crisp cotton for example the results are bound to look quite different. Understanding of the way in which a fabric is made and how it behaves helps you make the right choice for your pattern. Each fabric has its own character which is determined by its fibre content, yarn structure and construction. In turn, these qualities affect how the fabric handles: how it feels, whether it is coarse or smooth, firm or stretchy; and the way it drapes, whether it is limp or stiff Understanding fibres

All textile fabrics are made up of either natural or artificial fibres, or a blend of both. Each fibre has its own individual characteristics that are reflected in the fabrics made from it, and determine their use and care.

Natural fibres

The four main natural fibres are cotton, linen, wool and silk.

COTTON is obtained from the seed pods of the cotton plant. It produces many types of fabric, from sheer voiles to heavy damasks.

WOOL comes from the fleece of sheep and retains many of the same warm and waterproof qualities.

LINEN comes from the stem of the flax plant. The fibres vary in thickness, producing fabrics with irregular textures.

SILK fibre is unwound from the cocoons of a moth, Bombyx mori, better known as the silkworm.

Advantages

  • Porous and absorbent, they respond to temperature and humidity changes, making them comfortable to wear
  • Most take dyes well
  • Natural irregularities only add to the beauty and charm of fabrics made from animal or vegetable fibres
  • Drape well

Disadvantages 

  • Limited elasticity, especially cotton and linen, so fabrics made from them do crease easily
  • Inclined to shrink unless they are specially treated
  • Prone to damage from insects, mildew or sunlight
  • Often need special care or dry-cleaning

 Artificial fibres

Artificial fibres are manmade and typically fine, strong and pliable. Synthetic fibres, such as POLYESTER, ACRYLIC and NYLON are manufactured from oil by-products. Regenerated fibres, such as RAYON are reconstituted from natural plant material like cellulose. Microfibers are ultra-fine polyester fibres. Fabrics made from them combine the advantages of synthetic fibres with the good draping qualities of natural fabrics.

Advantages

  • Elastic and resist creasing
  • Easy to care for, resist soiling,
  • quick to dry and require little to
  • no ironing
  • Resist damage from moths,
  • mildew and sunshine

Disadvantages

  • In-built bounce means that they do not drape as well as fabrics made from natural fibres
  • Not porous, so they are non-absorbent and uncomfortable to wear in hot or humid weather
  • Fabric clings to the body due to a build up of static electricity