For lustre and sparkle, the range of sequined fabrics available is quite matchless. There are gossamer fabrics with sequins scattered over the surface, lurex fabrics with shimmering sequins, and sumptuous tulles covered with flower sprays richly decorated with pearl beads and sequins.
Handling with care
The sequins are applied by machine chain stitch or three-pronged stitch, where three stitches radiate from each hole. With chain stitch, if the stitches are pulled from one end, they easily unravel and the sequins fall off. (To find out which edge unravels, the sequins feel smooth when you rub your hand towards it.) Special handling is therefore necessary to prevent the sequins from coming loose once the fabric is cut.
Choosing a pattern
Sequined fabrics are ideal for evening wear, as well as formal and special occasions. For maximum glamour, use sequined fabrics for the entire garment. A less expensive and subtler option is to use them for just the sleeves or bodice, say, or as a colour accent for the collar or cuffs. Avoid zips, buttonholes, gathers, pleats and darts.
Types of sequinned fabrics
The option for sequinned fabrics is vast. Many different types of fabric are used as the background; the sequins vary in shape, size and finish; and there are several ways to apply the sequins. And, of course, the colour range of the fabric and sequins is fantastic.
Fabrics The background fabrics are knitted or woven. Woven backgrounds include lightweight sheers, such as chiffon and georgette. Knitted backgrounds range from slightly stretchy jersey to very stretchy raschel knits.
Sequins The sequins are generally 6mm (1/4in) in diameter and made from polyester, vinyl or PVC. The surface may be flat or faceted on the upper side, with a shiny, matt or iridescent finish. Some even have a hologram effect. The sequins are generally round with a tiny hole in the centre for stitching through, but some have no hole and are applied using heat.
Application Sequins with a central hole are applied by machine using chain stitch or a three-pronged stitch technique. Occasionally the sequins are applied by hand, although this makes the fabric expensive. Those sequins without a hole are heat applied.
Examples of sequinned fabrics
Polyester georgette forms a transparent background for the PVC sequins which are attached with machine chain stitch in loosely spaced, undulating rows.
Polyester georgette has closely packed straight rows of sequins, attached by the three-pronged stitch method.
Floral printed silk chiffon is decorated with transparent, iridescent sequins, applied by three-pronged stitch.
A raschel knit forms the basis for fabrics. These fabrics have a tremendous amount of stretch and are 28cm (11 in) wide, making them ideal for tops and bodices. A solid mass of sequins, attached with machine chain stitch, as 'sequin and raffia', is made microflbre and acrylic. Iridescent, vinyl sequins are scattered over the surface, and transparent, tinsel-like threads catch the light and add interest to the texture. Some have matt, vinyl sequins stitched on to a multi-coloured boucle background, made from a combination of acrylic and mixed fibres.
Cotton tulle is embellished with iridescent, faceted sequins, as well as corded lace and pearls. A popular choice for bridal gowns, this fabric is often used for part of the garment only - for the bodice or sleeves, say.
Slightly stretchy polyester jersey has hologram sequins for a mesmerising effect. The sequins overlap each other and are attached by three-pronged stitch. The fabric comes in a wide variety of colours, from turquoise and emerald green to scarlet and fuchsia.
Loose jersey has rows of solid sequins affixed by heat. The fabric is woven with metallic threads (lurex) for added sparkle and is available in black, gold and a variety of bright colours.
Mohair and sequin form the unusual combination for this shimmering, tex-tured fabric.
Sequinned applique motifs come in many different shapes and sizes, some more heavily sequinned than others and some incorporating metallic threads.
Needles and stitches
- Machine needles Sizes 90/14 to 100/16
- Stitch length 2.5 to 3mm(10 to 8 stitches per inch)
- Hand needles Sharps sizes 5 to 7
- Thread Polyester or silk