The soft, luxurious pile that is characteristic of velvet is created by a special weaving process. It involves using an extra set of warp yarns to form loops on the surface of the fabric that are cut. In addition to plain velvet there are other members of the velvet family that need to be handled in the same way, such as crushed velvet and devore velvet.
Traditionally velvet was made only in silk, making it an expensive and luxurious fabric. Nowadays it is usually woven in less costly cotton, cotton/rayon blends and viscose.
Types of velvet
Plain velvet Cotton velvet is an all-purpose velvet with a firm hand. Silk velvet, which is more expensive, tends to be shinier and softer than cotton, making it a good choice for evening gowns. Viscose velvet is closer to silk velvet than cotton in quality.
Hammered velvet This is a very lustrous velvet with a dappled, semi-crushed appearance.
Embossed velvet This patterned fabric is created by heat-stamping with a metal roller.
Crushed velvet During the manufacturing process, the pile of the velvet is pressed down in different directions producing a highly lustrous fabric with a patterned effect.
Devore velvet Currently very fashionable, this fabric has areas of velvet, usually in a definite pattern, on a sheer background. The pattern is created by dissolving parts of the velvet with a caustic solution. Devore velvet makes beautiful scarves, evening tunics and over shirts.
Velveteen commonly made from cotton, velveteen has a short, closely set, slightly sloping pile and a firm hand. Compared to velvet, velveteen has more body and does not drape as well; its pile has less sheen and is never more than 3mm deep
Choosing a dress pattern
The best garment styles for velvet are those with a minimum of seams and darts. Designs with moderate gathers and unpressed pleats are suitable.
Because of the pile weave, buttonholes and topstitching can be difficult to work. If buttonholes are required, use the bound buttonhole method or hand stitch them. It is often better to use another type of fastening, such as buttons with button loops, or frogging. For back closures, use concealed zips or insert the zip by hand. The striking relief patterns of devore velvet make it a glamorous choice for evening wear (left); a fitted jacket in lilac crushed velvet shimmers as it catches the light (below).
Cutting out
Unpicked seams leave marks on velvet, so make fitting changes to the pattern pieces before laying them out.
Fabric requirements
Velvet is a 'nap' fabric, meaning that, like a directional print and some satin weaves, looks different lighter or darker in velvet's case - depending on the way the nap runs. It is important that you buy the 'with nap' fabric quantity on the back of your pattern pack.
Checking nap direction
To find out which way the nap runs on a piece of fabric, stroke your hand along the surface. If it feels smooth, you are rubbing with the nap if rough; you are rubbing against the nap. Hang the fabric up and check its appearance, then hang it up the other way. The fabric will look different depending on the direction of the nap; nap running up gives a darker, richer look; nap running down looks lighter and usually wears better. Decide which direction you prefer for your garment.
Facings and interfacings
Cut facings from a lightweight lining fabric to keep bulk to a minimum. Always use sew-in interfacing to avoid pressing the fabric.
Laying-out and cutting
Spread the velvet, unfolded, right side up on the cutting surface. Lay out the pattern pieces so that they all point in the same direction with the nap running either up or down each piece. Do not pin until ready to cut because pins can leave marks in the fabric.
Cutting out Working with one pattern piece at a time, pin in the seam allowances only or use weights to hold the pattern pieces in place. Cut around pattern notches, as snipping seams to mark notches could cause a tear. Remove pins immediately after cutting out pattern section to prevent imprints on pile texture.
Transferring markings
Transfer only the essential pattern markings, using a marking pen or pins and chalk for symbols such as dots that show sleeve placement. As you sew, use the pattern tissue as an overlay to locate fold lines, pocket placement and similar markings.